Dealing with insecurity issues is not something limited to people... handwoven rugs have security issues as well! More specifically, they often have a tendency to wear down and start to unravel. In collectible pieces, this can lead to rapid devaluation... every knot that comes loose represents dollars pulling away from the rug value...

But rugs don't have to be valuable and/or collectible to be worthy of securing. It only makes sense that a rug that is falling apart will be better served by securing the ends rather than allowing them to unravel.

That having been said, there are many ways this problem is addresses in the rug repair world - and some methods are definitely better than others. Here are a few examples that we see frequently.

This is a common solution to unraveling ends, but in this case, it merely appears that it is secure, rather than providing a good, long-term solution. This simple stitch really only serves to link together the first two rows of knots... with enough foot traffic, those two rows will slide off as a unit. Really, the securing stitching needs to go deeper into the rug, and be varied in depth, to distribute the tension across a larger area. The tension of the stitching itself needs to be in direct proportion to the way in which the rug was made - in other words, if the stitching is too tight or too loose, it will cause another set of problems.

This stitching above is appropriate, however, for flatwoven pieces, such as the red flatweave in this small thumbnail. In this particular piece, the ends are secure because the fringes (warps) themselves have been knotted. But if the fringes were not knotted, and the rug was unraveling, the simple basting stitch above would be good to hold the rug wefts in place - though we would usually make two passes instead of the one above, so that the stitching looked like a series of X's instead of the parallel lines leaning in one direction. Again, the stitching is most effective when the fringes of the flatweave are nice and long. A flatweave has no pile (individual knots) but rather are made up only of warps and wefts, so it works.

Here is another method of securing ends, which is effective in very specific cases. The fringes are tied together using a continuous thread, rather than adding a stitching that secures the wefts and knots to the rug itself. If the fringes are too short, this method will not work. Eventually, with foot traffic, the securing thread on the fringe will slide off. With longer fringe, the method works better... so as long as the fringes are long, this securing will hold. If the fringe is damaged (say by a vacuum, or excessive foot traffic), then be sure to watch for signs of the tied thread pulling loose.

This rug has had the fringes tied off, but the fringes are way too short, as you can see. The blue thread that was used to tied the ends off has broken in this corner, and is coming loose. It won't be long before knots start to slide free.

Again, some flatweaves are repaired in this way in our repair facility, using a thick, wax-coated thread, which is then steamed and pressed after the tying is finished, to add additional strength and permanence to the repair. So in some cases, it is the preferred method.

Machine surging is absoluetly the worst possible way to have the ends and/or sides secured, as in this picture (and the one below). The steady drilling with the machine needle will weaken and perforate your rug. When a rug is secured by hand, the securing thread is secured around weft threads, whereas the machine just drills right through the wefts, causing damage that is not repairable. In many cases, latex or other glue is also added along the back side, which is also impossible to remove. In every case, such a "repair" devalues rugs, and we are always grieved when we see rugs come in - especially nice rugs - that have been so butchered.

On top of it all, it is a jarring, ugly-looking repair, from both the front and the back.

The Best Way

The way we secure unraveling rugs is with a button-hole type of stitch, using "unbreakable" thread.

Visible only from the back, varying in depth bewteen 3 and 5 rows of knots, and secured at a tension matching that of the rug itself, it is what we feel to be the best long-term solution for handmade, piled rugs. The rug does not need to be babied - use it as you normally would. Plus, our overcast repair work is guaranteed for the life of the rug. If at any time in the future, now matter how distant or for whatever reason, the securing stitch breaks and the rug begins to unravel again, we will repair it again at no charge.

If you have any more questions about securing the ends of your rugs - or of any other repair for that matter - you can email us at rugcarecentral@gmail.com, or start a thread in our "Discussions" area.

A client recently brought in a pair of Flokatis that had been purchased in Greece as a matching pair. One of them needed cleaning, and, best intentions being what they are, the client placed the flokati in a large washing machine, washed it in hot water, and then tumble-dried it in a large drier. Needless to say, there were some adverse effects to this approach, as is evident in these "after" pictures.

Keep in mind, they both were the same size initially. The unaffected one is on the right, the washed flokati on the left. The piece shrank from the original size of 5' x 2' down to 3' 7" x 1' 10 ". As you can see, there is quite a bit of yellowing as well.

Here is the view from the back side. As you can imagine, with the backing shrinking so dramatically, all of the pile is now packed tightly together, making the piece very stiff and much harder to roll. The unaffected piece on the right is still nice and soft and loose.

Here is a close-up of the two rugs side-by-side, so you can see the difference in both the color and texture of the pile.

The pile on the affected piece is still white down at the very base, but the tips are quite yellowed.

It is uncertain how far we'll be able to reverse the damage, if at all. The yellowing is likely reversible to a great extent, but whether we'll be able to stretch the piece back toward its original size, or restore the softness to the pile is another issue.

Once the work is done, I will post more pictures at the end of this entry. Look for it soon! And try to avoid putting your rugs in the washing machine!

On Monday, January 11, Kate and Lisa both spoke in San Diego at a gathering of the Palomar Handweaver's Guild, on the campus of Trinity Episcopal Church in Escondido. They spoke on the basics of rug care, and fielded many questions from the attentive and quizzical Guild member's in attendance. Topics of discussion ranged from cleaning methods and materials, to different repair approaches, to the benefits and drawbacks of natural vs synthetic dyes, and much more.

Here is Kate in the post-presentation hands-on Q&A time.

Here is Lisa, likewise answering questions on rug construction in the Q&A time.

This chart of Navajo dye materials was featured on one of the handouts for the event. Click to enlarge.

Lisa Wagner CRS has worked with me to produce a series of videos, and here is the first one - Basic Spill Tips. In the future, these videos will be archived in the FAQ section of this site.

If you have any further questions, email us a rugcarecentral@gmail.com.

For more detail, click HERE for Lisa's article on her Rug Chick Blog.

Every now and then, we get a nice old tapestry in here, usually to prepare for hanging. While tapestries certainly are interesting to us, they aren't exactly our area of expertise. We are connected with experts, so when the need arises, we can obtain detailed information for clients that seek info on their tapestries, or else put them in touch directly with the experts.

This tapestry came into our shop this week, and though we have yet to obtain information on its age and origin as of yet, I still felt it was interesting enough to post pictures of.

It is about 12' by 10', and is in very good condition. It has an interesting little Colosseum in the background, with a pair of dueling gladiators in it.

It had been prepared for hanging using Velcro at some point in the past, and now the Velcro is being removed, and a sleeve added so it can be hung on the wall with a decorative rod. Each method has its advantages.

Here are some more close-up pictures. Click to enlarge.